The concept of reversing the signs of ageing is as old as history itself. You will probably recall the stories of Cleopatra bathing in milk and Ponce De Leon, and ambitious explorer searched for the "Fountain of Youth". Although the true fountain of youth has not yet been discovered, the desire to reverse the signs of ageing still drives people to take drastic steps. Perhaps, a more attainable approach would be to slow the process of ageing.

Ageing is an inevitable fact of life. No matter how hard we attempt to avoid or eliminate it, the ageing process continues to gnaw away at each and every one of us on a daily basis. However, this gradual but certain fact of reality need not be cursed upon. To appreciate the ageing process you must firstly gain an understanding of how we age, before secondly, recognizing the role of proper skincare and skin protection in slowing the ageing process.
 
The Ageing Process
 
To assist the understanding of the ageing process of skin, you need to know the basic structure of the skin. There are 3 basic layers, the stratum corneum, the epidermis, and the dermis. The very top layer, the stratum corneum, or the top part of the epidermis, is commonly referred to as the 'dead layer of skin.' The epidermis underneath contains the melanin, responsible for our skin pigmentation, which helps protect us from the sun's rays. And lastly underneath the epidermis is the larger layer called the dermis. It is within the dermis that blood vessels, sweat glands, and collagen fibers reside. These layers make up what we refer to as the skin. Below the dermis is the subcutaneous layer, mostly made up of adipose tissue. This layer of fatty tissue is healthy and gives the skin an even shape, especially on our faces.
 
New cells form from the lowest level of the epidermis and gradually rise upwards towards the outer layer (the stratum corneum). It is here where they are worn off through the environment, with newer ones already beneath to replace the old cells. As we become older, this outer layer of the epidermis becomes slightly thinner, and the cells that are being made at the lower level are dividing and replacing themselves slowly. Therefore healing time is affected, along with a decrease in the production of more new skin cells. This reduction in new cells causes visible ageing of the skin, as the skin has becomes a lot thinner.
 
As you get older the melanin producing cells also decrease, so that the skin is at a higher risk of being damaged by the sun. Therefore it is extremely important to wear sunscreen whenever you are outside, and research has shown that the use of a sunscreen slows down the visual affects of ageing.
 
As you age, the collagen within the dermis becomes more stable, now this may sound positive, but it's not. It gives a person a look of stiffness in the face, and in general the skin is less pliable. And through this, the skin loses its elasticity. The skin which was once supple and firm during youth, when aged, loses its elasticity, and does not 'snap back' as it would when young.
 
Ageing also causes the fatty deposits under the dermis, to lessen, resulting in less cushioning to the outer layers of the skin. Therefore skin can bruise more easily, as the blood vessels within the dermis are not as protected as before. The dermis also retains less water, resulting in the skin becoming drier and some of the tiny capillaries even close-off, reducing the amount of oxygen and nutrients received by the skin.
 
These changes within the subcutaneous tissue and the changes within the dermis are the main contributors to deep wrinkles and sagging skin.
 
Although this may sound depressing, if you practice good skincare using professional products throughout your life, especially during your younger years, you will have a significant chance of maintaining a healthier, younger appearance well into your aged years.
 
What causes Ageing?
 
Most modern theories of ageing have centered on the notion that age-related deterioration is primarily due to structural and functional modifications of cellular constituents. Three currently popular hypotheses are the Free Radical, Glycation, and Maillard Theories of Ageing. The first hypothesis proposes that age-related effects are due to free radical reactions that damage cellular constituents. The latter two hypotheses propose that the primary cause of ageing is cellular damage resulting from the modification of macromolecules induced by non-enzymatic glycation.

Protecting the skin against ageing

There are many factors that influence ageing and the awareness of these factors is essential: stress, pollution, alcohol, cigarette smoking, improper nutrition, lack of sleep and ultra violet radiation. Each of these factors play havoc with our general health and cause free radical reactions, which contributes greatly to the ageing process.

Thankfully, antioxidants are substances that our body uses to help protect itself against "free radicals". Without enough antioxidants to protect you against free radicals, all your body tissues can suffer damage - not just your skin.

In 1998, a French study showed the beneficial effects, against free radical damage, of an antioxidants cream applied to the skin. When the antioxidant creams were used every day over a long period of time, no further damage to the skin took place, and the skin's condition improved. The researchers believed that the improvement was due to the skin being able to repair itself better, under the protection of the antioxidants.

Antioxidants that have been proven to have skin benefits include: Vitamins A, C and E, Flavanoids, Botanical extracts, Cereals, Lipoic Acid, and Co-enzyme Q10.

Vitamin A - the normalising vitamin - is essential for normal skin development as well as for growth and maintenance of bones, glands, teeth, nails and hair. Vitamin A helps to repair injured skin and improve the contour of dry scaly skin. It is absorbed through the skin, helping it to remain soft and plump and improve its water barrier properties. These properties make the vitamin useful in treating seasonal / environmental problems and suggests it would be suitable for use in aftersun products because of its normalising properties.

Vitamin A stimulates the renewal process of epidermal cells, which result in a thickening of the epidermis. At the same time, the collagen content is increased and there is an improvement in skin elasticity. Additionally, increased exfoliation of the skin surface cells may contribute to a healthier appearance.

Vitamin C can benefit skin in two important ways. Firstly, Vitamin C is essential for the synthesis of collagen and secondly, Vitamin C is an antioxidant. In conclusion, if Vitamin C is properly delivered to the skin cells, it will prevent free radical damage, reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture. The best results will be seen if Vitamin C is part of a collagen-rebuilding regime.

Vitamin E is a principal fat-soluble antioxidant vitamin. It protects cellular membranes, lipoproteins and other "oily" structures. As the skin is high in unsaturated fatty acids, it is particularly susceptible to free radical damage and can benefit from vitamin E protection.

Flavonoids are a diverse group of plant pigments with antioxidant properties. These substances are responsible for colour in many fruits, vegetables and flowers and protect plants from environmental stress. Additionally some flavonoids have anti-allergic, anti-carcinogenic, anti-viral and anti-inflammatory properties. Over 4,000 flavonoids have been characterized and classified, but only a few have been researched. As far as skin benefits are concerned, two classes of flavonoids appear to be especially beneficial: proanthocyanins (found in grapes and pine bark) and polyphenols (found in green tea).

Lipoic acid is a conditionally essential nutrient required by cell for generating energy from carbohydrates and some other fuels. It is also an effective antioxidant and heavy metal chelator. The body can synthesize lipoic acid in modest amounts but the production may fall short of requirements in many situations such as stress, illness and age.

Lipoic acid is unique in its versatility having a combination of antioxidant, metal-chelating and glucose-lowering properties, which inhibit glycation and cross-linking, the key mechanisms of ageing and the formation of wrinkles.

Co-enzyme Q10 (CoQ10) has two important roles: it is an essential part of the cellular respiration system, and it is an antioxidant. CoQ10 improves both the rate and efficiency of energy production in the cells. The body can produce CoQ10, but many factors, including age, illness, cholesterol-lowering drugs and malnutrition can impair that ability. CoQ10 is sometimes called a "biomarker of ageing" because its level correlates so well with ageing.

In most people over thirty, levels of CoQ10 in the skin are below optimum, resulting in a lesser ability to produce collagen, elastin and other important skin molecules. Therefore the application of CoQ10 will boost skin repair and regeneration and reduce free radical damage.

It would however be naïve to believe only using a skin cream containing the correct antioxidants ingredients, would completely nourish the skin and provide it will all its requirements, just as it would be naïve to think that changing your nutrition is going to instantly wipe out all your wrinkles or completely stop skin ageing. While a skin creams may provide a number of important substances, it is not sufficient to ensure proper, all-round skin nutrition and protection. A diet of fresh, whole foods and oral antioxidant supplementation is necessary to enhance the skin ability to resist free radicals damage.

Stress

The effects of stress and a few too many sleepless nights can show visibly on your face. From deeply etched frown lines to dark circles and puffiness under the eyes, it is relatively easy to neglect your skin to the point where it looks and feels worn-out. The body requires at least 6-8 hours sleep per night depending on individual needs. During sleep the body and skin repair and rejuvenate, therefore you should nourish your skin with a good moisturiser before bed. Try to avoid stressful situations and learn to take 'time-out for yourself'. Constant crying and rubbing the eyes can damage the delicate eye tissue, causing lines and wrinkles. Stress related acne and blemishes might also show up on the skin in times of depression.

Learn to relax your facial muscles so as to avoid expression lines. Gentle facial massage stimulates nerve endings and nourishes the skin by increasing the flow of oxygen through the blood, ensuring a healthy facial glow.

Smoking and Alcohol

Smoking and alcohol encourage the invasion of free radicals, therefore these substances must be avoided whenever possible. Red wine consumed in moderation however, can be very beneficial to the skin due to a good supply of grape antioxidants. Smoking, on the other hand, deprives the skin of normal blood flow and also interferes in the healing process. A smoker's face tends to show more lines and wrinkles than the face of a non-smoker; the skin may appear slightly grey, have a leathery or rugged appearance or a subtle gauntness.

Conclusion

In a perfect world, each of us would enjoy a complete and well balanced diet and live in a low stress environment with clean air, fresh water, natural protection from UV sunlight and plenty of exercise and rest. Unfortunately, modern lifestyles seldom match this ideal and research based upon the real world is increasing the knowledge of the key role nutrition, antioxidants and correct lifestyle can play in anti-ageing treatment methods to maintain health, vitality and a youthful appearance.