Did you know that your clients can also protect themselves from the inside, by using specially targeted alimentary products? Ferrosan Laboratories have done research into the issue of internal photo-protection. It’s highly informative. So with your assistance, your clients can obtain beautiful, lightly golden skin more quickly than before – and we all know that this is an essential tool in the art of seduction.

All health and beauty specialists are in agreement that dietary factors can optimise and help maintain a tan. In accordance with this principle, the most sophisticated beauty treatments are carried out from within, by supplying the organism with all the indispensable biological elements, which the skin needs in order to maintain its natural equilibrium and ensure a more active protection against sunburn and premature ageing of the epidermis.

Internal photo-protection is defined as sun protection through the oral absorption of certain substances, as opposed to external photo-protection, which is achieved by local application of a sunscreen. This development corresponds with the new dynamic of oral cosmetology and the concept of dietary-health.

THE ROLE OF ANTI-RADICAL MOLECULES IN INTERNAL PHOTO-PROTECTION

As far as dietary supplements are concerned, it is those, which have an anti-radicular action which impact most significantly on internal photo-protection, namely trace elements and vitamins.

As a consequence of their unpaired electrons, free radicals (superoxide anion, hydrogen peroxide, hydroxyl radical), resulting from physical and chemical stress, are highly reactive. Another big culprit in the production of free radicals is UV light, which attacks the molecular structure of cells, primarily targeting lipids, proteins and nucleic acids. This results in the nuclear mutation of the cell’s DNA. Every cell possesses a number of different lines of defence against free radicals. These primary defence mechanisms, constitute the activation of the cell’s own anti-free radical enzymatic system. Trace elements (zinc, copper, manganese, selenium) are involved in the activation of these enzymes and therefore have an anti-radical effect. The secondary defence mechanisms assist with repairing the cellular damage caused by the free radicals. Thus, vitamin E, vitamin A and Beta-carotene block the free radicals that have penetrated the cellular membrane. A synergy can exist between the different types of ant-oxidants. Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E, which is oxidised by the free radicals that it has captured. Free radicals have also been linked to acute solar reactions, such as sunburn, and chronic reactions, which eventually lead to the ageing of the skin and even skin cancer.

What you need to remember is that the secret to internal photo-protection today lies in the ingestion of molecules that can be found in dietary supplements. These molecules already exist in a physiological state in the cells, where they activate anti-radical enzymes and trap the free radicals produced by the sun in the skin.

DEFINITION OF DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS

Dietary supplements belong to four main categories of molecules: vitamins, trace elements, amino acids and essential fatty acids. Today the line is somewhat blurred between the different notions of “dietetic”, “cosmetic” and “medical”.

PRINCIPAL DIETARY SUPPLEMENTS WITH ANTI-FREE RADICAL ACTIONS

The body has a series of processes for controlling free radicals, ridding itself of them quickly and preventing them from damaging tissue. This is where anti-oxidants enter the picture.

Amongst those molecules most vulnerable to the effects of free radicals are fats and oils, which form part of the cellular membrane and which come from one’s food intake. It is now a well-known fact that the more fatty substances one consumes, the more anti oxidants one needs in one’s diet to protect the body. Without these protective mechanisms, these fatty substances can become damaged by free radicals and it is thought that their molecules can be mutated into a highly toxic form, known as “trans fatty acid”.

Thus, free radicals can result from exposure to UV rays but it is possible to protect oneself by making sure that one ingests adequate quantities of anti-oxidant nutrients and by not eating too many foods with a high fat content.

Five French epidemiological studies, carried out between 1986 and 1996, indicate that daily intakes of vitamin E are between 6 to 10 mg per day. Its toxicity is low but it is poorly absorbed. A vitamin E deficiency is very slow to build up (4 years).

Vitamin E absorbs the UV in UVB radiations and also protects the cellular membranes against the effects of free radicals. It prevents the formation of peroxidised free radicals, which result from sunburn. It is able to inhibit the oxidation of a thousand or so molecules of phospholipids.

These results, which were obtained by studies conducted in vitro, have led to the recommendation that vitamin E be used to help prevent skin cancers and photo ageing of the skin.

The following foods are good sources of Vitamin E: asparagus, celeriac, all the cabbages, spinach, parsley, sweet potato, leek, green pepper, bean sprouts, avocado pear, lemon, turnip, rutabaga (or swede), oats, wheat or wheat bran, rye bread, egg yolk, almonds and especially in certain cold press vegetable oils (carthame, maize, olive, Soya, wheat germ).

Beta-carotene and vitamin A

Beta-carotene, a vegetable extract fat-soluble vitamin is a carotenoid pigment, which is a precursor to vitamin A, capable of neutralising the unpaired oxygen produced by UV radiation. It is, therefore, an anti-oxidant. It has a limited photo-protective effect, which is observable in the organism, by reducing “sun burn cells” or photo-altered cells. Its efficiency is most notable in tissue that has low oxygen levels, which explains its elevated activity in the epidermis when compared to the dermis. It optimises the production of melanin, thus tanning, while at the same time preventing the skin from becoming dehydrated. The daily dosage required by the body is approximately 1,5mg per day.

Vitamin A can be found in significant quantities in animal products and by-products such as liver, eggs, fresh cream, milk, full fat cheese and especially butter.

As for beta-carotene, it exists in high concentrations in fruits and vegetables with a yellow, orange or red skin (tomatoes, carrots, apricots, pumpkin, blackberries, sweet potato, blueberries, sweet red pepper, melon, beetroot, watermelon, mangoes, asparagus, peaches, nectarines), in certain green vegetables (lettuce, spinach, parsley, corn salad / lambs’ lettuce, broccoli, cos/ romaine lettuce, avocado pear, green beans and garden peas) and in the cereal, maize.

Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid

This vitamin has a strong reductive ability, which guarantees the elimination of unpaired oxygen and certain free radicals. It restores the oxidised vitamin E in the membranes to an active state. Thus it also acts as an anti-oxidant. However, its effectiveness is reduced significantly by UV and therefore it is needed in high intracellular concentrations. Vitamin C increases intestinal absorption of selenium. The body’s daily requirements are generally covered by normal food intake (45mg per day). Vitamin C is found in high concentrations in fruit and vegetables.

Vitamins in the B group

Of the 15 types recorded to date, we will only be discussing those that are relevant to this topic.

Vitamin B3 (Niacin) defends against inflammation due to solar radiation. It can be found in mushrooms, cabbage, potatoes, pumpkin, parsley, asparagus, bean sprouts, maize, all fish and shellfish, all meat and poultry, wheat, wheat germ, rye, wild rice, barley, almonds, sunflower seeds, roasted peanuts and brewer’s yeast.

Vitamin B5 (Pantothenic acid) promotes cellular regeneration of the skin, hair and nails. It is found in abundance in mushrooms, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, bean sprouts, brown lentils, salmon, lobster, herring, sardines, turkey, chicken, avocado pear, rolled oats, wheat germ, wild rice, wheat bran, eggs, roasted peanuts, sunflower seeds, cashew nuts, brewer’s yeast, pollen.

Vitamin B10 (Para-amino benzoic acid: PABA) combats wrinkles and helps hair to retain its natural colour. It can be found in potatoes, tomatoes, bananas, beans, all the cabbages, eggs, kidney, brain, yoghurt, brewer’s yeast, wheat germ, royal jelly, pollen and liver.

 
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One’s diet contains variable amounts of vitamins. Every country has determined the quantities or RDA (Recommended Daily Allowance) needed by the average person. However, these recommended daily vitamin dosages are difficult to calculate because, in actual fact, each person’s individual needs and circumstances will vary according to factors like weight, stage of life i.e. whether they are going through a growth spurt, breastfeeding, smoking habits, stress etc. In most cases, scientific studies have shown that people’s intake is less than the RDA. The current trend is to replace this notion of RDA with the idea of ‘vitamin status’, which has the added advantage of taking into consideration the specific factors affecting each person, thus allowing for the option of addressing those needs with supplementation and integrating the notion of prevention.

Trace elements

Zinc

Co-activator of numerous enzymes within the organism, zinc is involved in protein, carbohydrate and lipid synthesis, cellular division and ensuring the stability of the membranes. It also has an anti-radical activity by triggering superoxide dismutase. It is also part of every process relating to the healing of the skin. It is directly involved in the metabolism of vitamin A. One finds zinc in garlic, mushrooms, red beetroot, garden peas, chickpeas, brown lentils, wheat, wheat germ, wheat bran, bean sprouts, rye, oat flakes, cod, crab, sardines, lobster, lamb, beef and turkey.

Selenium

Primarily, selenium has an anti-radical effect on the skin, by triggering keratinocyctic and fibroblastic glutathion peroxidase. It helps to maintain the stability of the cellular membranes, by ensuring constant levels of glutathion between the cells. It is an anti-ageing agent and facilitates the assimilation of vitamin E. it is found in garlic, spinach, brussel sprouts, mushrooms, bean sprouts, celeriac, brown lentils, raw prawns, herring, haddock, lobster, oysters, mackerel, cod, sea perch, sardines, calf’s liver, wheat germ, barley, sunflower seeds, brewer’s years and egg yolk.

Copper

Copper activates Cu-Zn superoxide dismutase in the skin, thus promoting the elimination of free radicals. Just like beta-carotene, it is a precursor to melanin, thus an excellent assistant in procuring a tan. It exists in significant quantities in wheat germ, wheat brand, almond nuts, dried walnuts, cashew nuts, pecan nuts, sunflower seeds, broad beans, green beans, calamari, shellfish, and laminaria seaweed.

Manganese

Manganese has an in vitro anti-radical effect, by activating manganese superoxide dismutase, which is dependant on intra-mitochondrial location. It stimulates keratinocytic proliferation and the production of collagen.

 

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All the anti-radical activities of these trace elements have been observed during in vitro research. Trace elements are available in a number of different forms: capsules, which one can swallow, single-dose bottles which one can drink, solutions which one can take in drink form, sucking tablets and pills, tablets which dissolve under the tongue etc. They can be taken in conjunction with one another.

Free fatty acids

Free fatty acids are all poly-unsaturated fatty acids. In other words they contain one or more double bonds. They occur in the form of phospholipids and triglycerides and are primarily made up of oils and food fats. Ceramides, which constitute more than 50% of the essential fatty acids, play a primordial role in the structure of the epidermal layer of the skin. They are integrated in the phospholipids in the cellular membranes and also play a vital role in ensuring the permeability of the membranes.

Amongst the essential fatty acids, we find linoleic acid, which represents between 15 – 25 % of the essential fatty acids of the stratum corneum.

We find them in oily fish (sardines, mackerel, herring, salmon, tuna, anchovies, eel, cod, carp etc.), in most red meats and poultry, thus also in dairy products. They are also found in egg yolk, butter, in certain cereals (oats, millet, wheat germ, wheat bran), oleaginous or oil-producing fruits (almonds, pine nuts, walnuts, hazelnuts, cashews, coconuts), in wheat germ oil, borage oil or onager oil (to be taken in capsule form.)

IN CONCLUSION

Internal photo-protection through the regular use of anti-oxidant molecules presents a real benefit to those wanting to tan the healthy and effective way. However it should be carried out using only those products that have been scientifically researched and well documented. Furthermore, you should remember that these products were never intended to replace external sun protection products.