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In
collaboration with Chanel, a study conducted by C.E.R.I.E.S (Centre de Recherches et
d'Investigations Epidermiques Sensorielles) involving 654 women from the
ages of 18 - 70, highlighted that the first signs of ageing, being the lines
around the eyes and wrinkles on the forehead occurred before the age of 29
in more than 50% of women. In other words, it emphasised the importance of
treating one's skin as early on as possible in order to obtain maximum
prevention. And this is even more important considering that people are
living longer these days (in 2050, 23% of the French population will be over
the age of 65 as opposed to 8,1 % in 1950).
This study also identified discrepancies between a person's actual age and
the age of their skin: a 30-year old woman can look 40 years old, as a
result of the damaging effects of pollution, smoking, stress and sun
exposure. Everyone ages differently due to the fact that environmental,
genetic, social and hormonal factors differ from one person to the next. As
a consequence of this individuality, your clients should be encouraged to
keep trying different creams until they find a formula that works for them.
So we thought it would be a good idea to share a bit about the broad groups
or "families" of active ingredients which are to be found in today's
anti-ageing creams, without rehashing the major problems associated with
mature skin, usually experienced from about 40 years onwards, which you know
only too well: dryness, tightness, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and
firmness.
Cosmetics need to address the main factor contributing to the ageing of the
skin: free radicals, which oxidise the cells and which multiply through
exposure to sunlight, tobacco, pollution, the glycation of certain sugars
which cause collagen and elastin fibres in the skin to become rigid,
resulting in a loss of skin tone and ultimately dehydration which causes
skin to look old and dull.
Proven Remedies
Vitamins, antioxidants, fruit acids and water have proven to be of sound
value in the fight against ageing, although certain other ingredients, may
also be efficient.
Vitamins
By now you are well acquainted with these. To summarise, we could say that
vitamin E protects the skin against oxidation, A or retinol regenerates and
smoothes out wrinkles, C is an antioxidant that stimulates the synthesis of
collagen. The winning trio is thus a combination of these three A, C & E,
the first is for youth, the second for muscle tone and the third for
protection.
It is impossible to list the all the brands and each product containing
vitamins because they are innumerable. We will only mention certain
specifics. In their "Soin Total Restructurant", Académie Scientifique de
Beauté concentrated
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natural vitamin A to 5%, combining it with
soya and wild yam, two ingredients which are aimed at fighting hormonal
ageing and which are currently in vogue. Matis’ Vitamin Response Range
combines the vitamins required to promote skin vitality with essential oils
that have been carefully chosen for their nourishing, cleansing and
regenerating virtues. Soya and vitamin E can also be found in Pier Augé's "Acma".
Jean d'Estrées combines vitamin E with shea butter for accelerated healing
and increased smoothness. Dr Pierre Ricaud's "Eclat de Vie" combines vitamin
C and a calcium "starter" that resets the internal clock of the cells.
Antioxidants
You will find them in all good creams aimed at counteracting the effects of
UV, stress and pollution. If your client is disciplined in regularly taking
a cocktail of antioxidants, she will notice a marked improvement in collagen
production after approximately one and a half years. Vitamins E and C remain
the benchmarks in this area, however flavenoids such as the patented Alpha
Flavon, are still very effective. For dry, distressed skins, Payot's "Design
Visage" containing fatty acids is the last word. In their treatment "Soin
Jeunesse 3D", G.M Collins combines an anti-wrinkle formula with retinol and
AHA's.
Fruit acids or AHA's
They have a fast-acting effect on the radiance of the complexion, which is
very appealing; however they can aggravate skins that are delicate and prone
to redness. By eliminating dead cells from the outer layer of the skin, they
allow for improved moisturising, which replenishes cells and results in a
more luminous complexion and improvement of brown pigmentation marks. Fruit
acids are one of Carol Franck's hobbyhorses who use apples, blueberries and
blackcurrant in her line, "Réveil Cellulaire". Gatineau and Payot are also
doing research on apples.
Water
Whether it is fresh or from the sea, water always has a positive effect on
the epidermis as water and skin are in perfect harmony. Water remineralises
the skin, making it more elastic and soft to the touch. When the skin loses
moisture, the essential enzymes involved in the construction of the corneum
stratum layer start to slow down; more and more water evaporates from the
skin and so begins the vicious circle of dehydration. A number of cosmetic
houses shine in the department of maximal hydration offering miracle
treatments. With "Hydraskin", Darphin advocates a plant found in the
expansive Australian deserts, called Imperata Cylindria, renowned for its
ability to conserve water during conditions of extreme drought. Combined
with a cocktail of various cereals and essential oils, this same plant
contained in Decléor's "Nutri-Délice" displays its ability to retain water
in the epidermis. With Orlane's "Fluidratants" cream and mousse, rich in
water plant extracts (bamboo, lotus, water lily), the skin learns how to
drink again. Esthederm boasts the benefits of their line "Eau Cellulaire", |
a water
substitute of interstitial liquid, in which skin cells live and swim around.
Gel and cream give cells their natural vital energy back again. One of the
brands that use the marine environment the most is Phytomer. The sea is a
source of richness, containing in its seaweed up to 50 000 times the
properties of the ocean. The laboratory extracts the molecule that is of
particular interest to them from this seaweed and that one and, having the
same constituents as intercellular liquid, osmosis of these 100% pure marine
agents into the skin is complete. Phytomer's "Ogénage Global" is thus a
vaccine against ageing. The benefits of laminaria seaweed are also exploited
in Esthederm's "Lait Intensif".
Two New Ingredients
At the forefront of research, is the introduction of phyto-oestrogens and
DHEA into their products, which have got a lot of people talking in recent
days.
Phyto-oestrogens
These are plant molecules that are known to have a similar action to natural
hormones. The most studied of these are isoflavins, which have been shown to
have an effect on skin quality during menopause, hot flushes and periods of
insomnia. On the skin, isoflavins cause cellular multiplication, similar to
the effect of retinol. Isoflavins slow down the deterioration of the elastin
and collagen fibres in the skin. As regards phyto-hormones. Decléor brings
us "Vitaroma Lift Total" with isoflavins from the iris and clover plants to
reconstruct the architecture of the skin.
DHEA
This hormone has an extraordinary effect on the libido, sleep, general
well-being and the quality of one's skin. It is a bath in the fountain of
youth, in the same category as a dietary supplement or medication. An
amazing pill, everyone was trying to get their hands on it, so much so that
lawmakers had to legislate it. Forbidden in France since last July in pill
form, DHEA has been transformed into a cosmetically correct substance.
Conclusion
Plants, essential oils, cacao, beech tree buds and shiitaké are also part of
the larger family of ingredients contained in anti-ageing products. However,
one can also not afford to neglect dietary supplements and supplements
should be at the top of the list of the cosmetic treatments that you
recommend to your clients with mature skin.
It is up to you, the therapist, to discover which of these best meets the
needs of the individual skin you are treating as well as the personal
expectations of your client. The complete reversal of the effects of time on
our skin is not within our grasp any time in the foreseeable future, but in
the meantime it is possible to slow down some of the damaging effects of
ageing on skin.
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